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Knot
Tying Guide
Ropes
and knots are the main tools for a mountain rescue team.
Below you will
find many of the most popular knots used in search and rescue rope
rescues - with special thanks to Irish
Climbing On-line for use of this information and artwork.
Please check out their website for Rock Climbing Events, Lectures &
News in Ireland.
Figure-of-Eight
The
Figure-of-Eight knot is probably the most useful of all climbing
knots. It is easy to tie, easy to undo after a load has been
applied, and puts the least stress on the rope when tied tight.
It can be tied anywhere in the rope, but if it's near the end,
it should be secured with a stopper knot to prevent the knot
from un-doing itself.
There are generally two methods used to tie a figure of eight
knot. The first method is used when a piece of equipment is
clipped into the loop, the second when the knot is used to tie
into something, for example, a climbing harness.
Figure-of-Eight
loop
 
Figure-of-Eight
re-threaded
  
The above re-threaded method is usually used to tie into a
harness, and is just a case of making a figure-of-eight on the
single rope, looping through the harness, and following the knot
back through itself.
Bowline
 
The bowline is easy to adjust and untie. Beware, though, that if
tied incorrectly in can be unsafe. You should really tie a
stopper knot in the loop with the loose end to prevent it from
pulling through.
Clove
Hitch
 
 
The clove hitch is easily adjusted when place, but is not a
particularly strong knot. If one side of the knot is to be
loaded, place the diagonal underneath. If both sides are to be
loaded, place the diagonal at the top. Tighten before loading,
as it may run if loaded when loose.
Highwayman's
Hitch
  
This knot can bear one's weight on one strand of the rope and
can be untied by just pulling on the other strand. End 'B' is
the load-bearing end. NOT RECOMMENDED for climbing, but
excellent for robbing stagecoaches, when you want to get away
quick with your rope.
Fisherman's
Knot
Probably the simplest knot for joining two ends of rope.
Consists of two overhand knots.
Double
Fisherman's Knot
 
Better than the Fisherman's Knot, this uses two double overhand
knots. Good knot, as it can be difficult to untie. Check
regularly for the loose ends getting shorter, and if so, re-tie.
Tighten with body weight.
Lark's
Foot
Quick knot, but weak. Best avoided.
Overhand
Knot
Probably the simplest knot in existence. Usually used as a
stopper knot, but a double overhand is preferable.
Double
Overhand Knot
Better as a stopper knot than the Overhand, as it is less likely
to pull through.
Overhand
Loop
This is the simplest way to create a closed loop in the middle
of a rope. Difficult to untie after loading.
Sheet
Bend
Occasionaly used to join the ends of ropes, may be adjusted
easily, but can also come undone easily.
Tape Knot
 
Usually used for joing the ends of tapes or slings. Can work
loose sometimes, so check regularly, and re-tie if the ends are
getting shorter. Tighten with body weight before use.
Ascending
Knots
Five
ascending knots are shown in all, each have their advantages and
disadvantages. Try them all out, and see which you prefer.
Prusik
Loop
The
Kleimheist
 
The
Hedden Knot, also known as Kreutzklem
First
published in 1960 in Summit Magazine. In 1964, the name
Kreutzklem was attached to it by someone in the German mountain
troops who was shown it by an officer serving in the US Air
Force. The Kreutzklem name (cross-clamp) was applied because the
original inventor (Chet Hedden) got lost somewhere along the way
when it was shown to different people in Europe.
 
The
French Prusik
 
The
Bachmann
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